Taste of the Town

Nick's on Broadway
500 Broadway, Providence, RI 02909

Atmosphere
John:  I don't want to go as far as to call Nick's a hole-in-the-wall joint because it's far too fancy of a place.  But with seating for only around 40, the small, cozy diner is often jammed with people while a bustling kitchen sits directly behind the bar, entertaining patrons with the way it operates: so fluidly and gracefully amidst the chaos of a packed restaurant.  Katie wants to call it a bistro, but the contemporary flare coupled with a delicious red and grey aesthetic reminds me more of an American-style brasserie.

Katie: Nick's is almost ridiculously small; with eight seats at the bar and probably not more than 25 at tables. The bright red countertop and sleek furniture lend a contemporary vibe to the restaurant, which is underscored by the minimal table settings. The open kitchen reveals stainless steel and allows patrons to experience the strict order maintained by chef and owner, Derek Wagner.  Derek's barking and the clanging noise of cooking replace the musical backdrop found in most eateries.

Food
John:  Katie and I went to Nick's for dinner and perhaps missed out on experiencing their acclaimed breakfast scene.  I had just eaten at Julian's for breakfast though, so I already had my fill of Broadway Street hipster "fare trade" for the day.  Granted, Nick's is more chic than hipster, but their menu is chock-full of locally grown food that ultimately translated into one of the most flavorful and confounding meals I had ever had.  My official menu selection was grilled Yellow-Fin tuna with roasted fingerling potatoes and fennel aioli ($22) and, after senselessly ordering the tuna cooked "regular," proceeded to consume the small dollop of fish in many nervous, petite bites. For dessert, I got something called mascarpone ($8), which is apparently an Italian cream cheese.  It wasn't as sweet as I had originally pegged Italian desserts to be, but its soft, swelling body crowned with almonds was agreeably rich and full in flavor.    

Katie: The menu at Nick's is not extensive, but the offerings are intricately designed and prepared with fresh, local ingredients. The starters on the menu included a cheese plate comprising selections from a local dairy ($12 to serve one / $18 to serve two) and local baby greens, with native goat cheese, grapefruit, hazelnuts, and champagne vinaigrette ($8). As tempting as the latter option sounded, my dining companion and I skipped the first course and ordered entrées. My spice-roasted chicken with sautéed vegetables, and thyme jus ($18) was cooked perfectly. My dessert, warm gingerbread bread pudding with vanilla-bean ice cream ($8), was not as flawless. The flavor was excellent, but the texture was a little firmer than I like for a bread pudding.
The two gentlemen next to me, who I creepily observed for much of the night, started with the cream of carrot, parsnip, and potato soup with crème fraîche ($6); moved on to herb-potato gnocchi with pork belly, and bleu cheese ($13); and finished off by sharing golden pineapple sorbet with mint ($7). It looked like a delicious progression. 

Service
John:  We walked into an empty restaurant at around 6:30 and, despite the obvious table space, the waitress proceeded to ask me for my reservation.  Then, as if she were struggling to find space for us, asked if we would mind sitting at the bar.  Nevertheless, I was thrilled to sit in full view of Derek as he orchestrated the kitchen operations with masterful skill.  Although I was initially disappointed not to be able to face my lovely dinner mate, I quickly got over it.  As for the servers at Nick's: Apparently raising your hand is not a very effective way to get their attention.
 
Katie: I like to think that I am, for the most part, a presentable young woman, and John was also put together when we ventured to Nick's.  Despite our best efforts, however, we must have screamed ‘poor undergrads' when we walked in. There is no other way to explain the less than attentive waitress who sat us in the nearly empty restaurant and then all but forgot us when things began to get busy. It took a little bit of finagling to order a single ginger beer and there was no mention of showing us a wine or beer list. The chef, however, made a point of calling goodnight to us as we left. This courtesy, paid to all of his patrons, intensifies the intimacy of the tiny bistro where diners, waiters, and kitchen staff are given precious little privacy (in a good way).

Overall Impression
John: Impressively smart and successfully pretentious, Nick's creates a unique and stylish dining experience; setting the table both figuratively with contemporary style and literally with delicious fare.  Take your date, sit at the bar, and small talk with Derek while he wows you with his youthful prowess as an established and celebrated Providence cuisinier.
 
Katie: Nick's on Broadway is a restaurant that I would highly recommend and would love to go back to. It is not suited for large gatherings, but is perfect for dates. And as long as you avoid raising your hand like a grade school student, your server might even take you seriously.